Why We Chose the Miyota 9039 for Our First Watch

Why the Vannin Field Watch uses the Miyota 9039: a true no-date automatic with a 4Hz beat and slim 3.9mm profile, set against the Seiko NH38 and Sellita SW200-1.

From the Journal

Why the first Vannin Field Watch uses the Miyota 9039 automatic, and how it compares with the Seiko NH38 and the Sellita SW200-1.

When Andy and I started designing our first Vannin Field Watch, one of the biggest decisions was what movement we were going to put inside it.

If you’re into watches, you’ll know how much collectors love debating movements. Swiss vs Japanese; high beat vs low beat; power reserves; accuracy; in-house calibres etc. On and on it goes.

What exactly is the Miyota 9039?

The Miyota 9039 is an automatic mechanical movement from Miyota’s premium 9000 series. Miyota is part of Citizen Group, so there’s a lot of watchmaking experience behind it.

Unlike quartz watches (which use batteries), a mechanical watch stores energy in a mainspring. An automatic movement winds that spring when you move your wrist. That’s one of the things I’ve always liked about mechanical watches — all those tiny parts working together to tell the time. No battery, just clever engineering.

Here are the important figures:

First, we didn’t want a date window

We decided early on that the Vannin Field Watch would not have a date window.

Our dial has segmented numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. We wanted them to be the main thing on the dial, so personally I don’t think a date window would have balanced it out.

I’ve got nothing against dates. I own plenty of watches with them on. But they didn’t fit on this design.

We’re in pretty good company

Something else gave me confidence in our choice: some great independent watch brands already use this movement.

And one of them makes a watch I really like: Baltic.

I’ve been a fan of Baltic for ages (especially the Aquascaphe collection). In my opinion it’s fantastic. I love the vintage styling, the proportions and how Baltic creates something different without charging ridiculous amounts of money.

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